(II) The Wushan Mountain by the Yangtze River

Revered as the “mother river” of the Chinese nation, the Yangtze River runs for 3,900 miles eastward from the Tibetan Plateau and flows into the sea in Nantong. On the boundless plain by the river and sea, five mountains rise straight up from the ground and lie imposingly at the Yangtze riverside with graceful posture like five green emeralds. The Wushan Mountain consists of the five mountains – Junshan, Jianshan, Langshan, Ma’an, and Huangni mountains – in a total planning area of about 0.98 square kilometers. With the Langshan Mountain in the center, the other four mountains stretch out 3.6 kilometers like a crescent moon. Known in ancient times as the “lock and key of the Jianghai Plain,” the five mountains are strategically important in the location.

Though not high, located in the flat Jianghai Plain, with the river flowing at their feet, the five mountains also feature unique scenery. Yu Qiuyu, a well-known contemporary Chinese writer, once wrote an essay after he visited Langshan Mountain: “With a height of just over 100 meters, Langshan Mountain is certainly left out of the list of famous mountains. But once people reach the top of the mountain, they will instantly feel that they are looking down on half of the world when they see the vast river flowing at their feet in the south, the boundless and flat plain in the north, and the misty sea in the east. The mountain is attractive for its openness and simpleness, without variable clouds or magnificent landscapes. The Creator has not arranged any fancy decorations here so that visitors can get a bird’s-eye view of the real world.”

At the top of the five mountains, visitors can enjoy a magnificent view of the flowing river, glowing sunset, rolling waves, flying birds, and lush plants. With the perfect combination of the “top landscape,” the Wushan Mountain is reputed as a “natural water bonsai.” One article in the Tongzhou Zhi (Gazetteer of Tongzhou Subprefecture Compiled in the Wangli Reign) records: “Tongzhou (now Nantong) is sufficient to surpass the 14 prefectures and counties in Huaiyang (now Taikang, Henan) for its garrison mountains which have a history of about 350-400 million years. According to Wen Xian Tong Kao (Comprehensive Investigations Based on Literary and Documentary Sources), the Langshan Mountain in Hailing (now Taizhou, Jiangsu) is a county in the Han Dynasty (202 BC- AD 220), and there are five mountains in the county: Huangni Mountain (29.3 m), Ma’an Mountain (49.4 m), Langshan Mountain (104.8 m), Jianshan Mountain (80.5 m), and Junshan Mountain (108.5 m), covering an area of 0.728 square kilometers.

Low and flat, the ground around the five mountains rises 2 to 4 meters above sea level and slopes slightly toward the Yangtze River, except for the riverbanks. During the Qin and Han dynasties, the five mountains were just islands in the sea. Ma’an Mountain and Huangni Mountain were below the water surface, while Junshan, Langshan, and Jianshan mountains were above the water. Due to the rise and fall of the sea, the crustal movement, and the impact of the Yangtze River, the surrounding area has undergone marine-continental transition, and it was not until the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty (1662-1722) that the entire area became land.

i. Langshan Mountain

Langshan Mountain (Wolf Mountain) got its name from legendary stories. One legend has it that white wolves used to live on the mountain and another is that the mountain looks like a wolf in its appearance. The name of Langshan Mountain was first mentioned in the Biography of a Monk’s Voyage Eastward. It was recorded that in 748, a famous monk named Jianzhen “on June 27, encountering rough weather, left Chongfu Temple and took a boat down to the border of Changzhou – Langshan Mountain.” There is a Jianzhen memorial pagoda for his eastern expedition at Dragon Claw Rock on Huangni Mountain. Also, Langshan Mountain is mentioned in Sima Guang’s Zizhi tongjian (Comprehensive Mirror for Aid in Government) and other ancient books.

Among all these versions, the most popular one has it that a white wolf spirit once occupied this mountain. Sengqie (660-710), a renowned master monk known as the Bodhisattva of Compassion, stayed here overnight and used his robe to cover the whole mountain in order to subdue the wolf. Since then, the Langshan Mountain has been famous for its strong scent of incense throughout the year and its long continuous line of believers.

Besides the Four Famous Mountains of Buddhism, there are also Eight Famous Mountains of Buddhism in China, among which Langshan Mountain is on the list. These mountains are regarded as the bodhimandas of bodhisattvas. Mount Putuo in Zhejiang Province is the bodhimanda for the Avalokitesvara (Guanshiyin Pusa), Mount Emei in Sichuan Province is for Samantabhadra (Puxian Pusa), and Langshan Mountain is for Mahasthamaprapta (Dashizhi Pusa). In Buddhist temples, Mahasthamaprapta, Amitabha, and Avalokitesvara are known as the Three Sages of Western.

As a line in the A Memorial of My Shabby Dwarf House describes,“A mountain does not necessarily need to be high. As long as a saint lives there, it will get good fame.” Over thousands of years, countless literati lingered here. For example, Wang Anshi, a famous Chinese poet in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127), in his poem, Sea View on the Langshan Mountain, eulogized the wonder of the mountain: “Traveling around the mountain has widened my vision.” A great calligrapher of the same generation named Mi Fu wielded his writing brush and wrote “The First Mountain.” With the five mountains rising on the vast plain, Langshan Mountain stands in the middle like the majestic Mount Taishan. With the forests and rocks at the northern side, it features the serene nature of Mount Qingcheng; with the dangerous cliffs on the back of the mountain, it has the precipitous nature of Mount Huashan; and with the wavy lines of the peak on the west side, it resembles the beauty of Mount Emei. Majestic, serene, steep, and spectacular, this small mountain is thus admired as “The First Mountain.” The national hero Wen Tianxiang left an immortal poem on Langshan Mountain. The couplet on the mountain, which is often used by later generations to describe Zhang Jian’s spirit of industry, is quite well-known to local people.

Temples constitute an important part of a famous mountain. The temples on Langshan Mountain are called Guangjiao Temple as a whole. The name “Guangjiao” means to teach all and to preach the Dharma to the public. Guangjiao Temple was first built in 669 of the Tang Dynasty (618–907), with a history of more than 1,300 years. During the Tang Dynasty, the Mahavira Hall was built, and later a pagoda was added. During the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, people erected more temple structures here. In the Taiping Xingguo period of the Northern Song Dynasty (976-983), the Zhiyuan Tower and the Great Sage Hall were constructed. And during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, the Zilang Zen Temple was built on the east side of the Depository of Buddhist Sutra.

The temple structures of Guangjiao Temple are spread all over the feet, slopes, and top of the mountain, which is one of the major features of Langshan Mountain: mountain temples and temple mountains. The dragon-shaped temple buildings encircle the mountain. The Hall of Faru faces downward like a dragon’s head, while Jingang Palace at the bottom of the mountain is like its open mouth; the Luncang Hall and the Dabei Hall are its horns, and the curved path is like its body; the Kuizhu Mountain House and other buildings on the side of the mountain seem like its claws, and the Zhiyun Tower at the top is the tail thrusting straight up into the clouds. With the temple roofs decorated with golden glazed tiles, they resemble pieces of dragon scales. This is the so-called layout of the “Golden Dragon Subduing Wolf” in geomantic structures (fengshui) when ancient people built the temples on Langshan Mountain.

One of the main buildings of Guangjiao Temple, the Mahavira Hall, also known as the Faru Hall and the Sakyamuni Hall, was first built in 669 during the Tang Dynasty and rebuilt in 1982. The horizontal inscribed board of the hall was written by Zhao Puchu, the former president of the Buddhist Association of China. The eighteen monks enshrined in the hall were selected from more than ninety eminent monks in China by several senior monks invited by Zhao. Fan Zeng, a famous artist of Nantong native, designed their portraits, and then the Beijing Arts and Crafts Factory was commissioned to produce 2,304 pieces of azulejos using ceramic firing techniques. These portraits are so vivid that they have become the treasures of Chinese Buddhism.

Built on the peak of Langshan Mountain, Zhiyun Tower is the most distinctive building of Guangjiao Temple. The tower was first built during the Taipingxingguo period of the Northern Song Dynasty. The 34.9-meter tower has a brick and wood structure that is square and five stories high, featuring curved eaves and cornices, a red-painted tower body, and golden glazed tiles. Each floor of the tower comprises three small rooms with wooden rails. On top of it are a seven-layered Xianglun (a ring runs through the pole), precious pearls, and golden bells. In front of the tower lies a wishing well, where many believers throw coins to make wishes. There is a folk song lyrics: “Three towers in Tongzhou, with four, six, and eight sides, twin towers rise from the ground, with one reaching the clouds,” in which the tower reaching the clouds refers to Zhiyun Tower that enshrines the statue of the founding master, Sengqie.

Zhiyun Tower was also known as Wenbi Tower in ancient times. According to the Tongzhou Zhi (Gazetteer of Tongzhou Subprefecture Compiled in the Wangli Reign): “Zhiyun Tower is like a brush sticking straight up into the sky, so the Tongzhou people call it wenbi (brush).” Over a thousand years, the tower has remained unchanged in its basic style of the Song Dynasty (960-1279).

Located on the peak of Langshan Mountain, Zhiyun Tower, a commanding height on the vast Jianghai Plain, can be seen from afar. Today, both Zhiyun Tower and Langshan Mountain are the landmarks of Nantong. The spire of Zhiyun Tower, the former South Gate of Nantong (i.e., Jiangshan Gate, which has been demolished), and the Bell Tower are on the same central axis, forming Nantong’s fengshui symbols.

Climbing up to Zhiyun Tower and looking into the distance, the majestic natural scenery gives people the feeling of reaching for the sky. In the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the chief commander of Langshan Mountain, Wang Yangde, wrote a poem in which he said that people could see the scenery in the ancient southern states of Wu and Yue on a clear day and look at the ancient battlefields in the northern regions of Jiangsu and Anhui during their leisure time. Scholars who visited this tower wrote many works to praise it. For example, a poem describes that the tower rockets into the sky so that people can count the stars here.

Zhiyun Tower is distinctive in its architectural art. As the land on the top of Langshan Mountain is limited, in order to save space, the first floor of the tower is used as the Ksitigarbha Hall, and the Sumeru Throne in the hall serves as the step of the tower, which is unique among pagodas throughout the country. For more than a thousand years, Zhiyun Tower has suffered many lightning strikes and fires and overhauled several times. It is not until the Republic of China that people began to install lightning rods at the tower’s tip to prevent it from lightning strikes.

Zhiyun Temple underwent two major restorations that were funded by Guangjiao Temple in 1984 and 2001. During the first renovation, the workers took out dozens of treasures from the tower, such as gold and jade ornaments, silver foils, jewels, and Buddha’s scriptures from the copper gourd weighing more than 100 kilograms at the top of the tower, and they were put back after renovation.

On the northern side of Langshan Mountain and backed by it, Jianyuan Garden has been built to commemorate Zhang Jian, a famous contemporary industrialist, statesman, and educator. The garden was built in 2003, with the front reflecting the style of gardens in the YRD and the back following the Buddhist culture of Guanyin Zen Temple, which was restored in the late Qing Dynasty. On the northern side of the garden, there is also a building in memory of Zhao Mengfu, a famous calligrapher of the Yuan Dynasty(1271-1368), and Shen Shou, the founder of Nantong Simulation Embroidery.

Along the paths of Langshan Mountain, there are many tombs of famous people, such as Luo Binwang, one of “the Four Paragons of the Early Tang,” Wen Tianxiang, a national hero of the Southern Song Dynasty, and General Jin Ying, as well as the martyr Bai Yayu, a leader of the Luanzhou Uprising and teacher of the famous intellectual Li Dazhao. The tombs of these benevolent and righteous people have contributed to the historical significance of the mountain.

ii. Junshan Mountain

Among the five mountains, Junshan Mountain is the highest and the largest one, covering an area of 5.4 hectares. Meanwhile, located in the easternmost of the five mountains, Junshan Mountain is the first to be seen when tracing the Yangtze River from its estuary.

As a comparatively high mountain on the plain, Junshan Mountain, with its fresh air, calm and deep streams, vibrant birdsongs, and blossoming flowers, is a unique and rare wildlife gene pool in the world. Various plants such as upright hedge parsley, honeysuckle, carex perakensis, red spider lily, and bitter melon grow here. As the best local tea in Nantong, Langshan Chunxiao, growing from excellent tea tree varieties in the green Longshan Mountain scenic spot, with fine tea production, is a typical fried green tea with unique color, fragrance, and taste and is known for its high quality. The Fusheng Tea House, sitting halfway up Junshan Mountain, is frequented by tourists and tea drinkers.

However, Junshan Mountain is less famous than Langshan Mountain. One reason for this is that the five mountains appeared on land at different times. Initially, the five mountains were islands in the sea, but as the sediment accumulated, they connected to the land one after another. They are named Huangni, Ma’an, Langshan, Jianshan, and Junshan from west to east. And the further west they are, the earlier they connected to the land. Except for Junshan Mountain, all other four mountains had appeared on the ground by the Ming Dynasty. There was only a waterway named Junshanhong between Junshan Mountain and Jianshan Mountain, so tourists had to take a ferry to Junshan Mountain. Thus, it was challenging to visit the mountain in ancient times because of the inconvenient transportation facilities. It was not until the Kangxi-Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty that Junshan Mountain appeared on land. Besides, as Junshan Mountain is located in a remote place, troops were often stationed here during the wars. After battles, it was usually in ruins. Therefore, the temples and literary works on the mountain that have survived to this day are indeed no match for those on Langshan Mountain.

The Junshan Observatory is a building of historical and cultural significance on Junshan Mountain. As the first non-public observatory in China, it was built in 1913 with the support of Zhang Jian. This observatory has been officially in operation since January 1, 1917, undertaking the functions of observation, calculation, and statistics. At 11:00 am and 5:00 pm every day, the observatory corrected the clock with the Xujiahui Observatory in Shanghai and published the daily weather forecast in Nantong’s newspapers. Since 1918, the staff of observatory compiled and published an annual report of observation records and research results of the year. In addition, monthly and quarterly reports were also prepared and published. English versions were available for these publications for sharing information with more than 40 observatories worldwide. At that time, the facilities of the Junshan Observatory were considered to be of first-rate in the country. When the observatory used advanced instruments to observe the time of day and the theodolite to observe stars, people in Beijing still fired the noonday gun for time alignment. What is more, Junshan Observatory has enjoyed an international reputation, and it has been listed in the International Astronomical Observatories published in Britain. In the spring of 1938, when the Japanese occupied Nantong, the observatory was severely damaged. Shortly after the founding of the People’s Republic of China (PRC), the observatory ceased to function as a meteorological station. However, it was restored to its original condition in 1998. Today, after a century of vicissitudes, the Junshan Observatory still stands at the top of Junshan Mountain and tells the past stories.

The signature treasure of Junshan Mountain is the Jade Guanyin, which is located in the Putuo Temple at the top of the mountain. It is crystal clear, dignified, and serene, and from its facial expressions to clothing folds, it appears real and natural with smooth lines. The statue of Guanyin is 78-centimeter high and 71-centimeter wide, with a net weight of 362 kilograms. This rare Jade Guanyin is the largest seated one in the world which was identified jointly by the Gems and Jewelry Trade Association of China, the China Jade Ware Appraisal Committee, and the Evaluation Committee of China Association of Collectors. In addition, with a height of 9.19 meters, the Junshan Guanyin Vase is the tallest one in the world. Moreover, the Daguan Waterfall, with the height of 45 meters and the width of more than 10 meters, is by far the most spectacular artificial waterfall in the north of the Yangtze River.

iii. Jianshan Mountain

Among the five mountains, four of them are arranged vertically, but Jianshan Mountain is horizontal.

With a height of 87.33 meters, Jianshan Mountain is also known as Jianji Mountain (Sword-Ridge Mountain) because it resembles a horizontally sheathed sword. As the peak is in a shape of a knife blade, it can be called Daoren Mountain (Knife-Edge Mountain). A legend has it that more than 2,000 years ago, Emperor Qin Shi Huang (259-210 BC) sent his subordinates to visit three sacred mountains, namely Penglai, Fangzhang, and Yingzhou, in search of the elixir of life, but in vain. One day, they traveled to the five mountains and garrison on the highest one, so the mountain got its name as Junshan Mountain. (Jun refers to the military in Chinese.) They also practiced sword fighting on another one, so the mountain was called Jianshan Mountain. (Jian means sword in Chinese.)

Jianshan Mountain is the Bodhisattva Manjushri’s bodhimanda in Nantong. At the north gate of Jianshan Mountain, a reclining statue of Manjushri Bodhisattva is elegant, well-rounded, stately, and divine. The reclining Buddha is 7.8 meters in height and 13.8 meters in length. Made of faux bluestone, it is the only and the largest reclining statue in China, carved by skilled craftsmen at a great expense.

In Wenshu Temple, there is an ancient ginkgo tree of more than 200 years old. When the ripe ginkgo fruits fall in the wind, and the wind chimes on the cornice make crisp sounds, this temple evokes a feeling of Zen which mesmerizes visitors.

The Big Belly Maitreya Statue on Jianshan Mountain is another must-see. There hangs a famous couplet about the Buddha: “The belly is big enough to tolerate the worst, the laugh is always for the mortal world.” Zhang Jian also inscribed: “A great joy of open-mindedness, a Buddha of attaining enlightenment.”

In addition, Chongyang Pavilion is a good place for people to pursue gentleness and nurture the mind. The pavilion was built before the Chongyang Festival, hence the name. People can enjoy the overhanging rocks, lush pines and cypresses, and Zhiyun Tower which is on top of Langshan Mountain at the pavilion. Verdant scenery and fantastic night view offer visitors a picture of halcyon days.

iv. Huangni Mountain and Ma’an Mountain

Standing on the riverside, the majestic five mountains make the Langshan Mountain Scenic Area.

Dragon Claw Rock, located in the westernmost part of the mountain, is one of the fantastic places on Huangni Mountain. It is named after its shape; most of the rock is submerged in the river, and the dark brown, jagged and bumpy ridge is like a dragon’s claw stretching into the water. The first wind-powered beacon light in China was built at the head of the rock, and there is also a memorial monument of the monk Jianzhen to commemorate his epic journey to Japan. The monument was completed on the 1310th anniversary of his birthday. With a height of 7.6 meters, the monument stands on the bank of the Yangtze River with extraordinary magnificence.

On the east side of Huangni Mountain is the Shiju Pavilion, which is an excellent spot to watch the sunrise and listen to the sound of the waves.

Though with a height of fewer than 50 meters, Ma’an Mountain is covered with dense vegetation. On top of the hill, Meilin Chunxiao (spring dawn of the plum wood) is a building complex with the characteristics of gardens in the YRD region, and it is a famous attraction in Langshan Mountain Scenic Area.

Backed against the cliff and facing the Yangtze River, Meilin Chunxiao has winding paths and pavilions inside. Located near the widest part of the river, it is also reputed as the first building to overlook the river.

Built in the 1980s, the building complex is associated with Zhang Jian and Mei Lanfang, a notable Peking Opera artist.

As he adored plum blossoms a lot, Zhang wrote a lot of poems about them. One of them reads: “Spring would arrive later/The north wind has not blown the plum blossom open yet/In the remains of the snow/There is a subtle fragrance floating.” In the several lines, the poem conveys that those traditional Chinese intellectuals pursue dignified, independent, and defying lifestyle. In the early years of the Republic of China, Zhang planted plum trees in Huangni Mountain and Ma’an Mountain and called the area Meicha (Plum Hill).

Besides enjoying nature and expressing his temperament and interest, Zhang planted the trees to commemorate his friendship with Mei Lanfang.

In December 1919, shortly after the Gengsu Theatre was established, Zhang Jian invited Mei Lanfang to Nantong. On the opening night at the theatre, Mei performed his masterpiece, The Drunken Concubine, which he had worked hard to perform throughout his life. When he sang the first line: “The icy moon starts to rise from the island in the sea,” the audience gave him a resounding round of applause.

Mei Lanfang, with his unparalleled manner and impressive beauty, impressed both the audience of Nantong and Zhang Jian. Later, Mei was invited twice to Nantong and performed with Ouyang Yuqian, a famous Peking Opera actor regarded as a southern counterpart of Mei. The performances of this perfect pair became a much-told tale in Nantong.

Whenever Mei Lanfang came to Nantong, Zhang Jian would appreciate the master’s performance and write a poem for Mei. Mei, who was only 25 years old at that time, was so touched by Zhang’s support that, in return, he expressed in a poem that even having one confidant is much more precious than gold.

In recent years, plum blossoms have been planted all over Ma’an Mountain again, and Meilin Chunxiao has gradually become another riverside Xiangxuehai, a famous restaurant in Suzhou.

With unique geographical forms and features, rugged rocks, cliffs, and an open river view, Huangni Mountain and Ma’an Mountain are particularly popular with tourists. This area is surrounded by the river on three sides, with one side by a green mountain, providing an excellent spot to enjoy the sunset and the evening glow.