Part 4 The Classic Shirt Block

Measurements required to draft the block.

Young Men's Sizes（e.g.40cm neck circumference，100cm chest width）.

Refer to the shirt size chart：

1cm seam allowance is included in the block.

1.Body section

Square both ways from 0（as sketch Fig 5-9）.

Fig.5-9 Classic Shirt Block

0—1 scye depth plus 4cm；square across.

0—2 natural waist length plus 3cm；square across.

0—3 shirt length plus 8cm；square across.

1—4 half chest plus 12cm；square up to 5 on back neck line and down to 6 on hem line.

0—7 one fifth neck size minus 0.5cm；square up.

7—8 4.5cm；draw in neck curve.

0—9 one fifth measurement of 0—1 plus 2cm；square out.

9—10 half back plus 4cm；square down to 11 on scye depth line and up to 12 on back neck line.

12—13 0.75cm；join 8—13.

10—14 10cm.

10—15 0.75cm；join 14—15 with slight curve.

1—16 half measurement of 1—4 plus 0.5cm；square down to 17 on waist line and 18 on hem line.

5—19 4.5cm；square out.

19—20 one fifth neck size minus 1cm.

19—21 one fifth neck size minus 2.5cm；draw in neck curve.

10—22 1.5cm；square out.

20—23 the measurement of 8—13 plus 0.5cm；join 20—23.

1—24 one third chest plus 4.5cm.

24—25 square up 3 cm from 24；join 23—25.

23—26 half measurement of 23—25.

Draw in armhole shape through points 13，10，16，25，23，and curve inwards 1cm at 26.

21—27 1.5cm button stand；square down.

27—28 3.5cm facing；square down；shape top edge at front neck line.

17—29 2cm.

17—30 2cm.

18—31 20cm；square across.

31—32 1cm.

31—33 1cm；draw in side seams.

34 midway between 6—18；square up.

35 midway between 3—18.

34—36 4cm；square across to front edge.

Draw shaped curves as shown from 33—35 and 32—36.

If pleats are required at the back yoke line，9—37 is 2cm；square down.

2.Sleeve

Square down from 0.（as sketch Fig 5-10）.

0—1 one forth arm scye measurement（measuring a curve）；square across1.

0—2 sleeve length plus 3cm，minus cuff depth and body yoke width（Fig.5-9，0—13）；square across 2.

1—3 half measurement of 1—2；square across 3.

0—4 half arm scye measurement；square down to 5.

0—6 half arm scye measurement；square down to 7.

Divide 0—4 into four sections，mark points 8，9，10.

Divide 0—6 into four sections，mark points 11，12，13.

Draw in sleeve head；join 4—8，raise 1cm at 9，2cm at 10，across point 0，raise 1cm at 11，across point 12，hollow 1cm at 13，join to 6.

5—14 one third measurement of 2—5.

Fig.5-10 sleeve

7—15 one third measurement of 2—7.

16 midway 5—14；join 4—16.

17 midway 7—15；join 6—17，draw in underarm seams as shown in Fig.5-10.

18 midway 2—14；square up 15cm to 19.

18—20 1cm；join 2—14 with a curve.

3.Cuff

Cuff width plus 4cm；cuff depth plus 2cm.

4.Collar

Construct shirt collar with stand.

Depth of classic shirt collar with stand is approximate to 8cm.