大连私房菜:汉英对照
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海味全家福 Stewed Assorted Seafood

说到大连老菜,就不得不提到海味全家福。它是大连传统宴席中的一道主菜,以用料丰富、口味浓厚、鲜香四溢而著称,是大连家庭聚会、商务宴请中一道必不可少的菜品。

全家福这道菜南北都有,大连的海味全家福则由胶东帮鲁菜演变而来。相传在公元前二百多年,秦始皇统一天下后,大举焚书坑儒。其中有个儒生侥幸逃出,四处躲藏。数年之后,秦始皇去世,秦二世登基,儒生才敢返回家中。谁知两年前家乡发了一场罕见的洪水,他的妻子、儿女不知流落何方。他感到人生无望,遂决定投河自尽。恰巧这时有位渔夫路过,将他救起,并带回家中。儒生刚踏入渔夫家门,忽然见到一个熟悉的身影,他一下子就认出此人正是他四处苦寻的亲生儿子。父子俩抱头痛哭了一场。原来,他的儿子已经成为渔夫的女婿。在渔夫的全力帮助下,儒生又找到了流落街头的妻子和女儿。为了庆贺他们一家历经磨难,终于团聚,渔夫特地请来了一位远近闻名的厨师制作丰盛的家宴。厨师为他们做了一道菜,名曰“全家福”,乡亲们品尝后赞不绝口,这道菜便流传了下来。

除了鲁菜的全家福之外,江南也有全家福,据传是因乾隆下江南得名。合肥菜“李鸿章杂烩”也属于同一个菜品。荆楚名菜中也有全家福,且有“带帽”和“不带帽”的分别。岭南客家的盆菜如果追本溯源的话,也是中原全家福在岭南的变种。

相比其他地区的全家福,大连海味全家福的特色在于海鲜丰富,海参、海螺、扇贝、鱼肉、虾仁等一应俱全。传统的海味全家福是道红烧菜,重在勾芡,芡汁可以包住原料的水分,提升食材原有的味道。随着近些年人们对健康、养生的日益关注,这道菜也发生了些许变化:减少了油、盐的用量,演绎出清汤海味全家福,在保留海鲜口感的基础上更加清爽,也更加健康。海味全家福除了做法讲究之外,还有一个要点就是食材的选用。几乎每个大连老菜馆都供应这道菜,但价格却高低不一,其中的门道就在海鲜的品质和用量上,尤其是海参的品质,可谓至关重要。上好的海味全家福选用的海参要有刺,又叫“刺参”。而一般价格便宜的海味全家福选用的是海茄参,大连人称其为“海茄子”。从外形上看,它是没有刺的,口感与刺参相差无几,但营养成分与刺参相比却有天壤之别。

一般家庭会做海味全家福的很少,大部分时候人们还是选择在饭店里吃,除了品尝菜品本身的美之外,还看中了它合家团聚、幸福美满的寓意——这是点这道菜的更重要的意义,寄托着大连人对美好生活的向往和追求。

 

When it comes to authentic Dalian cuisine, we must recommend you Stewed Assorted Seafood, a significant main course in both local family feast and business banquet, which is famous for the rich ingredients, intense flavor and delicious taste.

Stewed Assorted Delicacies is common in both northern and southern China, whereas Dalian Stewed Assorted Seafood derives from Jiaodong cuisine, a sub-branch under Shandong cuisine. The legend goes that before 200 B.C., the First Emperor of Qin has started to burn books and bury the literati in pits after he unified the whole country. Luckily, a Confucian scholar escaped, and had hided from place to place since then. Years later, the First Emperor of Qin passed away and Emperor Qin II ascended the throne (who adopted slack policy), so the scholar took a chance to go home. He had been running away from his home for a long time. When he came home, he heard that an unprecedented flood washed away his wife and children two years ago. He had nowhere to find them, and in great despair, he drowned himself into the river. However, he was saved by a fisherman, who took the scholar back home. When he entered the fisherman's house, he found a familiar figure, who turned out to be his son! The father and the son both cried with great joy. It turned out that the son had already become the fisherman's son-in-law. With the help of the fisherman, the scholar also found his longseparated wife and daughter. To celebrate their hard-won reunion, the fisherman invited a famous local chef to cook a family feast for them, among which there was a dish called“Stewed Assorted Delicacies”, winning the palate of many folks and thus having been handed down from generation to generation.

In addition to Shangdong Stewed Assorted Delicacies, Jiangnan Stewed Assorted Delicacies won its name during the adventures of Emperor Qianlong (a wise emperor in the Qing dynasty). “Li Hongzhang Assorted Delicacies”of Hefei cuisine belongs to the same variety. Stewed Assorted Delicacies even found its way to Jingchu cuisine, which can be either put into a plate (called“without a hat”) or a crockery (called“with a hat”). Getting to its root, Poon Choi of the Hakkas inhabited in Lingnan region is also a variant from Stewed Assorted Delicacies.

Compared to other local cuisines, Dalian Stewed Assorted Delicacies puts a highlight on seafood such as sea cucumber, conch, scallop, fish, shrimp meat and so on. In traditional way of cooking, Stewed Assorted Seafood is braised in soy sauce, with efforts being put on starching, so that the sauce mixed is able to retain the seafood moisture and keep its original flavor. With the growing concern about health and wellness in recent years,however, this dish has also been changed, with less oil and salt being used to cater to people's lighter taste. Retaining the original flavor of seafood, the seafood cooked in this style is more fresh-tasting, and also more healthy. In addition to the particular way of cooking, Stewed Assorted Seafood cannot be so tasty without its picky selection of ingredients. Virtually, all authentic Dalian traditional restaurants serve this dish, but the price varies significantly due to the quantity and quality of seafood being used, especially the quality. In Particular,sea cucumbers of superior quality have thorns, which are called“thorny sea cucumbers”. But some restaurants use the sea cucumbers without thorn to cut the cost (which is also reflected in the menu). In terms of taste, there is no big difference, but their nutritional ingredients vary largely.

Since local families are not good at cooking this dish, in most cases they come to a restaurant to order one, not only for its unique taste, but also for the implied meaning of this dish-happy family reunion and aspiration for a better life, and that is the significance of ordering the dish.